In Praise of Home Cooking by Liana Krissoff (Weekend Cooking)

The new spring cookbooks are starting to roll into the bookstores and into my kitchen. It's always fun to get the chance to cook out of new books.

This week is In Praise of Home Cooking by Liana Krissoff, which I received because I'm a member of the Abrams Dinner Party review program. Spoiler alert: I really like the mix of information in this book.

At its heart, In Praise of Home Cooking is a guide to helping you

be confident in the kitchen, to understand ingredients, to enjoy cooking and eating, and to be capable of sustaining yourself and your friends and family.

With this mission in mind, each recipe in the cookbook was picked to teach new cooks (from children to adults) basic techniques and to expand the horizons of seasoned home chefs.

Some recipes are clearly for kids or for the truly inexperienced chef, like the one for a grilled cheese sandwich. Others may seem simple on the surface, but in fact provide a lot of information. For example, Krissoff gives us two methods for cooking rice. You may wonder what you could learn from a rice recipe. Here's what: a no-measure way to cook rice on the stove top so it's perfectly cooked and fluffy every single time. I haven't tried this yet, but other members of the Abrams Dinner Party were mightily impressed.

On another level, In Praise of Home Cooking is a kind of retro guide to homemaking--or to kitchen making, if you will. There are features on keeping your kitchen clean, on making aprons and potholders, on how to measure properly, and how to make do with what's on hand.

Krissoff may be skilled enough to plate up Instagram-ready dishes, but she's very quick to note that pretty isn't as big a goal as is nourishing yourself and your loved ones. She reminds us that home cooking is not culinary school or restaurant cooking.

So what about the recipes? Everything I made from In Praise of Home Cooking came out great. Though I don't generally use a recipe for a basic stir-fry, the Pork and Pepper Stir-Fry was delicious (see photo below). The only change I made was to cut my port a little differently and to add a few mushrooms that needed to be used up.

The Cardamom Butter Cake was dead easy and made a great snack cake, coffee or tea cake, and dessert. It's one of those recipes to keep on hand for all kinds of occasions and for no occasion at all. Two other winners are the homemade taco seasoning mix (see recipe below) and the garlic kale.

Here are some other recipes I have marked to try: Small Batch Sauerkraut; Smoky, Savory Pinto Beans; Spicy Gingerbread (see scan), and Kale, Clementine, and Cranberry Salad.

If I have any complaints about In Praise of Home Cooking, it'd be this. Krissoff encourages readers to use what's on hand and what can be easily found in local stores. Yet, in many of the photos we see high-end ingredients, such as imported canned tomatoes, the corner of a Penzey's spice bag, and a jar of artisan pickles. I understand, of course, that some products make for a prettier photo.

Recommendation: All in all I really liked Liana Krissoff's In Praise of Home Cooking. In fact, it may become my new pick for twenty-somethings getting their first apartment because the information is solid and the recipes are good and easy. City dwellers who rely on takeout, might be inspired to cook at home once in a while or may appreciate a few recipes to help stretch their paychecks. Experienced cooks will enjoy reading Krissoff's "Home Food Manifesto" as well as her stories and the recipe introductions. If you're unsure, see if your library has a copy.

Seventies-Style Taco Meat Mix for the Cupboard
Enough for 6 batches of taco meat

• 5 tablespoons ground cumin
• 4 tablespoons paprika
• 1 tablespoon onion powder
• 1 tablespoon garlic powder
• 1½ teaspoons garlic powder
• ½ tablespoon dried oregano
• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 3 tablespoons cornstarch

Put all ingredients in an airtight pint-size jar. Cover and shake to combine thoroughly. Store in a cool, dry, dark cupboard.

Use 2 tablespoons per 1½ to 2 pounds of ground meat.

This is a mild mix. To make it hotter, Krissoff suggests replacing some of the paprika with ancho chile powder or adding a little cayenne. [I did both!] Mastodon

Note: The recipe and scan are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photo is my own.

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Two Culinary Cozy Mysteries (Weekend Cooking)

Today I'm writing about two culinary cozy mysteries I've recently read. One strays a bit from the genre's usual formula, and the other one is as cozy and familiar as it gets. I enjoyed them both.

Against the Currant by Olivia Matthews (2023, St. Martins Press) is a fun first installment in a new cozy mystery series set in the Little Caribbean neighborhood of Brooklyn.

Lyndsay Murray worked hard to realize her lifelong dream of opening a West Indian bakery-cafe in partnership with her Grenadian family--Mom, Dad, brother Devon, and Granny. On opening day, friends, neighbors, and relatives line up to buy Spice Island Bakery's sweet and savory treats. All is going smoothly until a rival bakery owner shows up and begins to publicly bully Lyndsay into shuttering her shop. When the baker is later found murdered, Lyndsay becomes the prime suspect.

There is much to love about this cozy. First, it's unique in avoiding many of the usual cozy tropes. Lyndsay is smart, knows how to defend herself (she's a kickboxer), and always puts her family and business first. She, of course, does conduct her own investigation of the murder, but the story always comes back to her business, for example, we see the family baking and Lyndsay doing the book work and closing up the cafe at the end of the day. We don't see Lyndsay going down into a dark basement all by herself, and when she senses danger, she exits or calls for help.

The secondary characters are always important in a cozy, and this one is no different. Here, we get to know Lyndsay's close-knit family, learning their backstories and current life situations. We also meet Lyndsay's cousin and some neighbors and friends.

Lyndsay's character is well done: she's determined and smart but is also insecure. She worries about letting down her family and wants to protect them from harm. The bakery and the Little Caribbean streets and locals also play big roles in the story. I can't wait to revisit the clan and neighborhood in future books.

Note too, that this culinary cozy ends with two recipes from Spice Island Bakery: Currant Rolls and Coconut Bread. I like that I can bring some West Indian sweets into my kitchen.

The audiobook was beautifully read by Janina Edwards, who particularly excelled at the many needed accents. See my review of the audiobook at AudioFile Magazine.

Curds of Prey by Korina Moss (2003, St. Martin's Press), the third installment of the Cheese Shop Mystery series, has all the elements fans are looking for in a good culinary cozy.

Set in the Sonoma Valley, the series centers around Willa and her cheese shop. As background to the series and to the murder, we learn about Willa, her friends and co-workers, and the townsfolk. In this outing, Willa and other local caterers are setting up for an outdoor bridal shower on the grounds of a wealthy estate. Trouble brews before the party gets started and by day's end, there's been a murder.

Because Willa found the body, she's curious about the case. And when the town's mayor asks her to unofficially investigate, Willa can't resist. Of course, she's not in this alone and can rely on help from her closest friends. The plot has a good mix of town happenings and various red herrings. Willa and her friends cooperate with the police, who seem to know what they're doing. Throughout, we see Willa cooking up a number of yummy-sounding cheesy dishes for herself and others.

I enjoyed the escape to California and getting to know Willa. I didn't guess the killer, but once the villain was revealed, I could see that it made sense. As with all good culinary mysteries, the book ends with a couple of recipes for dishes mentioned in the story.

Note that although I haven't read the first two books in the series, I never felt lost or that I was missing out. I'm looking forward to reading more adventures with Willa and the gang.

Thanks to the publisher for the review copy.

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On the Curry Trail by Raghavan Iyer (Weekend Cooking)

If you've ever looked for a curry recipe, then you're sure to have come across the name Raghavan Iyer. He's definitely a member of curry royalty, and I'm grateful to Workman Publishers for sending me a copy of his latest book, On the Curry Trail.

In this cookbook, Iyer introduces us to the many dishes from all around the world that are at heart curries, influenced by the flavors that traveled with Indians through their diaspora and by British colonials and others as they traveled from and, in some cases, permanently left the Indian subcontinent. Indeed, as Iyer tells us, curries are found (or have been found) on every continent of the globe. Yes, even Antarctica. I learned this and so much more from the introduction of On the Curry Trail.

The recipe chapters divide the curry world into geographical areas: Asia, Africa and the Mideast, Europe and Oceania, and the Americas. The dishes range from the very familiar (butter chicken) to the more exotic (sour teff crepes) and from vegan (tofu with red curry paste) to omnivore (lamb stew in bread bowls).

One thing to love about On the Curry Trail is that the vast majority of recipes call for ingredients found in a well-stocked supermarket. Better yet, the dishes are fairly easy to make and the results (at least in my experience) are fantastic. Iyer is well aware that some ingredients and techniques may be new to his readers, so the cookbook is full of tips, variations, definitions, serving ideas, and a bit of background. I especially liked learning how to make my own spice blends and sauces.

One of the recipes in On the Curry Trail made me laugh. It comes from Germany and is, in fact, a dish I ordered when I was there a few years back. That dish is currywurst. When I ordered it at a small pub, I was sure it was going to be some dazzling dish of German bratwust in a warming, yellow curry sauce. I did indeed get bratwurst, but they were served with a curry-spiced ketchup! Delicious, yes, but my friends and I had a good laugh when we realized I had basically ordered hot dogs and ketchup while on vacation in Europe! The recipe Iyer gives looks much tastier than the one I was served.

So far, I've made three dishes from On the Curry Trail. The Pork Meatballs in a Cream Curry Sauce (Boller i karri from Denmark) were delicious and comforting on a late winter evening. The Wok-Seared Curried Fried Rice was probably the best fried rice I've ever made (see photo). I substituted bok choy for the called-for cabbage because I had some to use up. Also, the original recipe is vegan, but I added some leftover grilled chicken breast. I didn't worry about my changes because, as Iyer says, "in a food culture like China's nothing is wasted." My changes were in the right spirit.

The third dish was slow-cooked chickpeas with saffron (Hommos zafaran from the Mideast). This too was delicious and had just the right heat level. I'm so glad I made the suggested scallion-mint relish; as Mr. BFR said, it really made the dish special (see the photo). I have many more recipes marked to try, like the Coronation Curried Chicken Salad with Apricots, Red Lentils with Ginger, and Curry Noodles with Shrimp.

Recommendation: If you like curry in all its many forms, Raghavan Iyer's On the Curry Trail is for you. Note that no matter what your diet--gluten free, vegetarian, vegan, or meat eater--you'll find plenty of recipes to try.

I wasn't sure which recipe to share because each one is accompanied by additional helpful information, like history, tips, and/or variations. Instead, I'm sharing a spread from the book (click to enlarge) that includes a recipe for Berbere, a spice mix from several countries in Africa. The spread also shows you one of the bright, cheery drawings you'll find throughout the cookbook.

Note: The scan is used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photos are my own.

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2 Tried-and-True Recipes (Weekend Cooking)

Don't you just love it when you find recipes that you're happy to make many times over? Today I'm sharing two such recipes. The first is from a cookbook and the other is from a website.

I can't believe that I've never written about the cookbook Skinnytaste Air Fryer Dinners by Gina Homolka (Clarkson Potter, 2021). I have much confidence in Skinnytaste, I bought this cookbook sight unseen. My instincts were right--Skinnytaste Air Fryer Dinners has become a much-used cookbook in my house.

Instead of writing a full review, I'll just quickly note some of the features I always like about Homolka's cookbooks: each recipe is marked for special diets (like dairy free, gluten free, and vegan) and comes with nutritional information. Homolka also includes serving suggestions, tips on buying ingredients, and full-color photos.

Here are some of the recipes we've made more than once: from Skinnytaste Air Fryer Dinners: Hawaiian BBQ-Inspired Drumsticks, Beef and Broccoli, Cajun Shrimp Dinner, and Un-Fried Falafel. In our opinion, though, the true winner of of the cookbook is the recipe for My Signature Wings (see recipe below). We make this at least once a month and have yet to get tired of it. The recipe in the book is very similar to Homolka's Skinny Buffalo Wings on her website, but there are subtle differences. I recommend the one I'm sharing here.

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Have you ever used the website Food.com? I came across it just in the last year when looking for a chicken breast recipe that would use up some whipping cream I had left over from another dish. That's when I discovered Chicken Breasts in Lemon Cream Sauce. This is incredibly delicious made exactly according to the recipe. I've also followed the method provided in one of the comments for assembling the chicken ahead of time if you want to serve it to guests.

The original suggests serving over pasta. We like it over wide egg noodles, but I've also used brown rice (and GF flour) when serving this to gluten-free friends. Leftovers heat up okay the next day for lunch, but the chicken ends up a bit overdone, so you might want to think about that if you're serving fewer people. One trick I do is take two chicken breasts and cut them in half horizontally. That way we usually end up with only one small piece for lunch the next day.

I don't have a photo of the finished dish, and the ones submitted to Food.com don't really do it justice. You'll have to just believe me here.

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We absolutely love the following chicken wing recipe. Here are some notes: (1) I mix the marinade in a plastic zipper-locking bag and then add the chicken. (2) I don't preheat my air fryer. (3) I cook the chicken 12 minutes, use tongs to turn each piece over, and then cook for 12 minutes more. The wings are perfect every time. We have a large air fryer basket and can fit 18-20 pieces in one layer. (4) The photo is mine.

My Signature Wings
From Skinnytaste Air Fryer Dinners
Serves 4

• 20 pieces chicken wing portions (drumettes and wingettes; about 40 ounces)
• 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
• 2-1/2 tablespoons Frank's RedHot Original Sauce
• 1/2 tablespoon (1 packet) sazon seasoning with achiote
• 1-1/2 teaspoons garlic powder
• 1 teaspoon adobo seasoning
• 1/2 teaspoon onion powder
• 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

In a large bowl toss the chicken wings with the remaining ingredients. Marinate for at least 10 minutes or up to overnight in the refrigerator (the longer the better).

Remove the wings from the marinade and discard the marinade. Working in batches if needed, place the wings in the air fryer basket in a single layer. Cook at 400F until the skin is browned and the chicken is cooked through, 22 to 25 minutes, shaking the basket halfway through. (Note you can cook the wings in one batch if you prefer. Just add 10 to 15 minutes to the cooking time and shake the basket 3 to 4 times throughout cooking.) Serve immediately.

Note: The recipe is used in the context of a mini review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders.

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A Tale of Two Kitchens (Documentary; Weekend Cooking)

I'm not quite sure how I missed this gem of a documentary, which--according to IMDb--came out in 2019.

A Tale of Two Kitchens, directed by Trisha Ziff, looks at two sister restaurants: Contramar in Mexico City and Cala in San Fransico. Chef-owner Gabriela Cámara's restaurants may share fundamentals, but those concepts are manifested in slightly different ways in Mexico and the US. Cámara's menus feature fresh seafood with the idea of transporting diners to the beach through their meals. The dishes feature fresh ingredients and Mexican flavors and are presented beautifully.

Though the restaurants and the food are important elements of the documentary, A Tale of Two Kitchens is really about the staff and a work culture of found family. In Contramar (Mexico City), the staff puts mutual help and support, both on and off the job, at the center. Workers are looking for a better life and a way to give that better life to their children.

In Cala (San Francisco), there is very much a sense of second chances. Everyone is given the opportunity to make a fresh start, and the staff includes ex-convicts, immigrants, and recovering addicts. People are hired on their own merits, not on what they did in the past. In both restaurants, workers are given respect, friendship, and the possibility of a bright future.

In just 29 minutes, A Tale of Two Kitchens gives a unique perspective on how restaurants--and any business for that matter--can be run. Everyone deserves dignity and respect in the workplace. Chef Gabriela Cámara proves it can be done.

If you take a look at the trailer (below), you'll learn one of the sad truths of how many (most?) Americans think of their brethren south of the border. A Tale of Two Kitchens can be streamed on Netflix

Note: photo from Nextflix.

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