Showing posts with label Abrams. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Abrams. Show all posts

15 April 2023

In Praise of Home Cooking by Liana Krissoff (Weekend Cooking)

Yellow book cover shows a white bowl with two eggs and a whiskThe new spring cookbooks are starting to roll into the bookstores and into my kitchen. It's always fun to get the chance to cook out of new books.

This week is In Praise of Home Cooking by Liana Krissoff, which I received because I'm a member of the Abrams Dinner Party review program. Spoiler alert: I really like the mix of information in this book.

At its heart, In Praise of Home Cooking is a guide to helping you

be confident in the kitchen, to understand ingredients, to enjoy cooking and eating, and to be capable of sustaining yourself and your friends and family.
With this mission in mind, each recipe in the cookbook was picked to teach new cooks (from children to adults) basic techniques and to expand the horizons of seasoned home chefs.

Some recipes are clearly for kids or for the truly inexperienced chef, like the one for a grilled cheese sandwich. Others may seem simple on the surface, but in fact provide a lot of information. For example, Krissoff gives us two methods for cooking rice. You may wonder what you could learn from a rice recipe. Here's what: a no-measure way to cook rice on the stove top so it's perfectly cooked and fluffy every single time. I haven't tried this yet, but other members of the Abrams Dinner Party were mightily impressed.

photo of a piece of gingerbread on blue and white plate next to glass of milk and milk bottleOn another level, In Praise of Home Cooking is a kind of retro guide to homemaking--or to kitchen making, if you will. There are features on keeping your kitchen clean, on making aprons and potholders, on how to measure properly, and how to make do with what's on hand.

Krissoff may be skilled enough to plate up Instagram-ready dishes, but she's very quick to note that pretty isn't as big a goal as is nourishing yourself and your loved ones. She reminds us that home cooking is not culinary school or restaurant cooking.

So what about the recipes? Everything I made from In Praise of Home Cooking came out great. Though I don't generally use a recipe for a basic stir-fry, the Pork and Pepper Stir-Fry was delicious (see photo below). The only change I made was to cut my port a little differently and to add a few mushrooms that needed to be used up.

The Cardamom Butter Cake was dead easy and made a great snack cake, coffee or tea cake, and dessert. It's one of those recipes to keep on hand for all kinds of occasions and for no occasion at all. Two other winners are the homemade taco seasoning mix (see recipe below) and the garlic kale.

Photo of a skillet of pork and vegetable stir-fry on the stoveHere are some other recipes I have marked to try: Small Batch Sauerkraut; Smoky, Savory Pinto Beans; Spicy Gingerbread (see scan), and Kale, Clementine, and Cranberry Salad.

If I have any complaints about In Praise of Home Cooking, it'd be this. Krissoff encourages readers to use what's on hand and what can be easily found in local stores. Yet, in many of the photos we see high-end ingredients, such as imported canned tomatoes, the corner of a Penzey's spice bag, and a jar of artisan pickles. I understand, of course, that some products make for a prettier photo.

Recommendation: All in all I really liked Liana Krissoff's In Praise of Home Cooking. In fact, it may become my new pick for twenty-somethings getting their first apartment because the information is solid and the recipes are good and easy. City dwellers who rely on takeout, might be inspired to cook at home once in a while or may appreciate a few recipes to help stretch their paychecks. Experienced cooks will enjoy reading Krissoff's "Home Food Manifesto" as well as her stories and the recipe introductions. If you're unsure, see if your library has a copy.

Seventies-Style Taco Meat Mix for the Cupboard
Enough for 6 batches of taco meat

  • 5 tablespoons ground cumin
  • 4 tablespoons paprika
  • 1 tablespoon onion powder
  • 1 tablespoon garlic powder
  • 1½ teaspoons garlic powder
  • ½ tablespoon dried oregano
  • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 tablespoons cornstarch

Put all ingredients in an airtight pint-size jar. Cover and shake to combine thoroughly. Store in a cool, dry, dark cupboard.

Use 2 tablespoons per 1½ to 2 pounds of ground meat.

This is a mild mix. To make it hotter, Krissoff suggests replacing some of the paprika with ancho chile powder or adding a little cayenne. [I did both!] Mastodon

Note: The recipe and scan are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photo is my own.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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28 January 2023

Fake Meat by Isa Chandra Moskowitz (Weekend Cooking)

cover of cookbook showing a vegetarian "steak" with the title and author surrounding itHappy Saturday! Last week Mr. BFR had dental surgery, which meant a week of soft(ish) foods. I made mac 'n' cheese, soup, an oven-baked tofu, and other easy to chew dishes. Fortunately, the surgery went well, and the only restrictions he has for the next few weeks are no seeds, nuts, or crunchy foods. I can work around that.

This week I'm talking about Fake Meat by Isa Chandra Moskowitz, a cookbook I received as a member of the Abrams Dinner Party. Spoiler alert: to be honest, this cookbook was a bit of a challenge for me.

The first thing to know about this cookbook is that title and cover photo of Fake Meat are a bit misleading. Moskowitz's recipes are meant to mimic a typical American omnivore diet, rather than rely on store-bought vegetarian meat products.

Inside Fake Meat, you'll find vegan, home-made versions of bacon, meatloaf, fried chicken, beef stew, fried eggs, and even lox. Moskowitz goes the distance and provides recipes for all the extras you'll need to make the meal complete, such as vegan versions of sour cream, ranch dressing, puff pastry, and Parmesan cheese.

Fake Meat is a cookbook specifically geared to people who are vegan but still want to enjoy the foods they likely grew up with. You'll find the expected veggie burger, but did you know you could make vegan lobster rolls? The recipe is based on parsnips. The schnitzel recipe uses cauliflower steaks, and the pork chops are really homemade seitan.

Vegans will be familiar with most of the ingredients needed for the recipes in Fake Meat, such as nuts, kala namak, tempeh, TVP, jackfruit, and agar-agar. Even the more unusual ingredients will be easy to find, such as beet powder and pea protein.

A photo of vegan club sandwichI made the mushroom bacon (see recipe below) and the dilly chickpea egg salad. I also marked a couple others to try, like the lox made from carrot strips.

Here are my thoughts on the bacon. I've always had trouble crisping things up in my oven--for example, I can't make crispy chickpeas and my oven-dried tomatoes never really dry--so I'm not sure why I thought I'd end up with dry and crispy mushrooms. In any case, the baked mushrooms tasted vaguely bacony but wouldn't fool a meat eater. On the other hand, fake bacon is a handy trick: put it out on a baked-potato bar for your vegan friends. If I make this recipe again, I'll use my air-fryer.

The fake egg salad was tasty and easy to make. The dish gets its eggy flavor from the kala namak (an Indian salt), which can also be used in tofu dishes and (so I've been told) even on fruit (?). My general conclusion was this: I have recipes for a bunch of chickpea salads, and the Fake Meat version, though good, is not likely to be my go-to.

Note too that both dishes were on the salty side for our tastes. If I made either again, I'd start with half the called-for salt.

Recommendation: Fake Meat by Isa Chandra Moskowitz would be a good choice for vegans who crave hearty, classic dishes. I bet people who keep kosher and those who have dairy issues will find a few tricks and tips for broadening their range of dishes. I, however, don't see myself reaching for this cookbook. When I want a vegetarian meal (I'm an omnivore), I'm looking for recipes that put vegetables on center stage. If I'm craving a meat dish, then I make meat. If you're at all curious about this cookbook, I suggest checking it out of the library before buying it.

Pantry Mushroom Bacon
Photo of dried mushroom "bacon" on a white backgroundMakes 1 cup

  • 1 (16 oz) package sliced cremini mushrooms
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1½ teaspoons salt
  • 2 teaspoons liquid smoke
  • 1 tablespoon nutritional yeast flakes
Toss the mushrooms with the olive oil and salt in a medium bowl. Let sit for 1 hour until they release their juices.

Preheat the oven to 350F (175C) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Drain the mushrooms of excess liquid in a colander and return them to the mixing bowl. Sprinkle with liquid smoke and toss to coat.

Transfer the mushrooms to the prepared baking sheet and spread out in a single layer. Bake for 30 minutes, stirring the mushrooms halfway through. Remove from the oven and lower the temperature to 325F (165C).

Sprinkle the mushrooms with nutritional yeast and use a thin spatula to toss and coat. Bake for another 15 minutes. The mushrooms should be crispy and firm.

Let cool on the baking sheet before using. They can be stored at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

Note: The recipe and scans are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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15 October 2022

Take It Easy by Gaby Dalkin of What's Gaby Cooking (Weekend Cooking)

Cover of Take It Easy by Gaby DalkinThose of you who have been reading my blog for a while will recognize Gaby Dalkin, from What's Gaby Cooking. I reviewed her first cookbook, What's Gaby Cooking, in 2018. Her second cookbook, Eat What You Want, came out in 2020. I've cooked many recipes from those books over the years.

Dalkin's newest cookbook is Take It Easy, which came out a couple of weeks ago. I received a copy because I'm a member of the Abrams Dinner Party review group. The subtitle of the cookbook is "Recipes for Zero Stress Deliciousness," and I am here to tell you that the subtitle doesn't lie. Everything I made from Take It Easy was simple to make and really tasty.

Dalkin's attitude toward cooking and entertaining has evolved as her life and the world have changed. Now that she's a mom, she doesn't have the time or desire to spend hours in the kitchen away from her family. In addition, since the pandemic, she is--along with almost all of us--entertaining in a totally different way from before. Gatherings are ever more casual and more about spending time with friends than about making impressive dishes. Laid-back, though, doesn't mean no flavor; it just means a slightly different kind of cuisine.

photo of chicken stir-fry in the panWhat hasn't changed is Dalkin's commitment to "simple, fresh, flavorful food that you can feel really good about eating." Also note that easy doesn't always mean last minute. Many of the recipes get their flavors from do-ahead marinating or pickling, for example. Others benefit from prepping and assembling earlier in the day, so dinnertime itself comes together quickly and effortlessly. The recipes in Take It Easy require no fancy techniques and almost no specialty tools.

Take It Easy includes recipes for the whole day: from breakfast to after-dinner dessert. Dalkin uses familiar pantry items, like canned beans, pickled jalapenos, and canned crushed tomatoes when it makes sense. She's California based, and many ingredients reflect that, such as fresh herbs, specific types of heirloom cherry tomatoes, and fresh fish. I had no trouble finding acceptable replacements at my local grocery. For example, I'm not sure the orange-red tomatoes I got at Wegman's were Sun Golds, but they were the right size and color; that works for me.

Here are some recipes I made:

  • Crispy Chicken Stir-Fry, with garlic, ginger, and bok choy (see photo, taken before the bok choy wilted)
  • Sausage Sheet Pan Supper, with a variety of bell peppers, cherry tomatoes, and a Calabrian pepper vinaigrette
  • Aperol Tequila Spritz, made with lime juice and sparkling water
  • Korean BBQ-Inspired Meatloaf, with kimchi, gochujang, and finely chopped veggies
  • Creamy White Beans, with garlic, rosemary, and spinach topped with a Calabrian chile oil
  • Brussels Sprouts and Brie Gratin, which will absolutely make it a holiday dinner table around here (see photo)
  • Little Gem and Beet Salad, with a green tahini dressing
Photo of finished Brussels SproutsEverything, and I mean everything, was delicious. I've always loved Dalkin's salads, and I have a lot more marked to try. She definitely has a thing for cacio e pepe, because Take It Easy includes a handful of so-named recipes. I'm a fan, so no complaints here. Other members of the Abrams Dinner Party made the no-churn Tiramisu Ice Cream, and that one is on my list either for the holidays or for next summer. By all accounts, it's fabulous. Another winner has been the Cheesy Hamburger Helper-Style Pasta.

Vegetarians might turn to the Buffalo Cauliflower Bowls, Linguine al Limone, Castelvetrano and Artichoke Pizza, or the Spanish-ish Broccoli and Leek Omelet.

Recommendation: I'm a big fan of What's Gaby Cooking and of Gaby Dalkin's cookbooks, so I give Take It Easy two big thumbs up. Vegetarians will find a number of recipes to try and others that will take very little tweaking. Vegans may have less luck.

Here's a recipe that's on my list. Dalkin suggests serving these mushrooms with steak or roasted salmon; I think they'd be great with any simple meat. I'll be using a mix of store-bought mushrooms

photo of cheesy mushroomsCheesy Roasted Mushrooms
Serves 4 to 6

  • 2 pounds (910 g) wild mushrooms, trimmed and torn into large pieces, depending on size
  • 1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
  • Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
  • 1 cup (100 g) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
  • 1 cup (110 g) freshly shredded Gruyere cheese
  • Juice of 1 lemon
Preheat the oven to 425F (220C).

Place the torn mushrooms on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Drizzle with the oil and season with salt, black pepper, and crushed red pepper. Transfer the sheet pan into the oven and roast for 30 to 35 minutes until the mushrooms are fully cooked and the edges are crispy, tossing 15 minutes through.

Remove from the oven and sprinkle the cheeses on top.

Transfer the sheet pan back into the oven and roast for an additional 5 minutes until the cheese is fully melted. Remove the sheet pan from the oven, squeeze the lemon juice on top of the roasted mushrooms, and adjust the salt and black pepper as needed. Serve immediately.

Tip: You need ample room for roasting the mushrooms because otherwise they'll steam in the oven, and that's not what we're going for. If you find that your pan is too crowded and there's no space between the mushrooms, divide them between two sheet pans so you can achieve optimum crispy deliciousness.

Note: The recipe and scan are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photos are my own.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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23 July 2022

Abrams Cookbooks & a Winning Salad Recipe (Weekend Cooking)

Book cover of What's Gaby Cooking: Eat What You Want by Gaby DalkinBefore I get to the cookbook and recipe, I just want to let you know that my Facebook messenger was hacked and someone sent out bogus messages from me yesterday. If you got one, just ignore it. I still haven't figured out how to report the incident, but for now, I'm hoping this is a one-time event.

As you know I've been a member of the Abrams Dinner Party cookbook review group for a number of years now. You may wonder if I continue to use any of the Abrams cookbooks after I've reviewed them. I'm here to say yes. I cook from them a lot.

For example, I made the most delicious chocolate cake I've made in years for our July 4 cookout. That red wine chocolate cake recipe came from Gabriel Kreuther: The Spirit of Alsace, a Cookbook (which I reviewed last November). A week or so ago I made the chicken Parmesan from The Dinner Plan, an Abrams cookbook I first wrote about in December 2017. I shared the recipe for that chicken parm in September 2018, and it's still my go-to.

Anyway, my point is that when I rave about a cookbook, it's not just for the moment. I can usually tell if a cookbook will stand the test of time. Abrams cookbooks often do. If you want to be a member of the Abrams Dinner Party, the application for the next publishing season is live now. You have until July 31 to apply. Just click this link.

This past week has been HOT and next week will be even hotter. Turning on the oven is not high on my list of things I want to do. Thank goodness I own an air fryer, because it saved us from a hot kitchen on three nights (see my meal plan below).

For two dinners, I turned to another favorite Abrams cookbook, What's Gaby Cooking: Eat What You Want, which I reviewed in June 2020. First up was the Greek Chicken Trough, which is a salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, bell peppers, chicken and feta cheese. I employed the air fryer here to cook the chopped chicken breasts so I didn't have to heat up my house.The other salad was The LA Chop (see photo from 2020). This one isn't for my vegetarian and vegan friends, but it absolutely satisfies the omnivore BFR household. I've shared the recipe below.

Note that I didn't include the recipe for the lemon vinaigrette needed for the following recipe. Just make a simple olive oil, red wine vinegar, and garlic dressing, substituting the juice of 1 lemon for some of the vinegar.

The LA Chop
Serves 4 as an entree

  • Lemon Vinaigrette
  • 2 tablespoons dried oregano
  • Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper
  • 1 head iceberg lettuce [sometimes I use romaine hearts]
  • 1 head radicchio
  • ½ small red onion thinly sliced
  • 1 pint (300g) heirloom cherry tomatoes, cut into quarters
  • 1 (15-oz, 430 g) can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
  • 8 ounces (225 g) fresh pearl mozzarella
  • 4 ounces (115 g) provolone cheese, cut into medium dice
  • 4 ounces (115 g) Genoa salami cut into small cubes
  • 5 pepperoncini (stems discarded), cut into thin slices
  • 2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano for garnish
Whisk the dried oregano into the vinaigrette and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Cut the lettuce into 1/4-inch strips. Repeat with the radicchio.

In a large, wide bowl, combine the lettuce, and radicchio, tomatoes, chickpeas, mozzarella, provolone, salami, and pepperoncini. Season with salt to taste and toss to thoroughly combine. Drizzle 6 tablespoons (90 ml) of the dressing over the salad and toss gently to coat evenly. Taste and add more dressing as needed. Transfer to a large platter and garnish with the chopped oregano.

Note: The recipe is used with permission; all rights remain with the original copyright holders.

Last Week's Dinners
Saturday: Grilled salmon with roasted yellow wax beans (in the air fryer)
Sunday: Greek Chicken Trough salad (used the air fryer for the chicken)
Monday: Pork tenderloin and broccoli (cooked in the air fryer)
Tuesday: Tofu and vegetable stir-fry and rice
Wednesday & Thursday: Black bean enchiladas
Friday: The LA Chop salad

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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04 June 2022

Two New Vegan Cookbooks (Weekend Cooking)

As promised last week, today's post is all about two recent vegan cookbooks. Though they are both focused on plant-based eating, they have different perspectives.

Book cover of BOSH! on a Budget by Henry Firth and Ian TheasbyFirst up is BOSH! on a Budget, the newest cookbook by Henry Firth and Ian Theasby, who are well know for promoting a vegan lifestyle in cookbooks and on their YouTube channel BOSH.tv. Thanks to the publicists for the review copy of this cookbook, which will be released next Tuesday.

Rather than define a certain money limit for what constitutes "budget cooking," Firth and Theasby take a broader view that isn't tied into local food prices and individual resources. Instead, they save money by engaging in batch cooking, eating in-season foods, opting for homemade over convenience food, and cutting down on food waste. The beginning of the cookbook includes several useful features, such as tips for cooking and using up the food you have on hand. Throughout the cookbook are recipes for homemade versions of common ingredients, such as sauces, tofu, and pasta.

My favorite recipes were the salads, soups, and stews, though I really liked the General Tso's Tofu and have several others (like Baked Ratatouille Rice) marked to try. All the dishes are 100% plant based, though many rely on vegan alternatives, especially vegan dairy products. I made and liked the Spanish-Style Stew but must confess that instead of the vegan sausages called for in the recipe, I used the real thing.

overhead photo of vegan shakshukaOther recipes in BOSH! on a Budget take a different approach to mimicking animal-derived ingredients. Look at the "eggs" in the shakshuka (see scan). They look real, but they're actually made from vegan yogurt and a tahini-pepper sauce. Very clever and fun.

I didn't bake from this cookbook, but vegans who are looking for yummy desserts won't be disappointed by the tray bakes, tarts, and cookies. Note that the sweet treats are plant-based but still have gluten.

Beginner and unsure cooks will appreciate the step-by-step detailed style of the recipe directions. Firth and Theasby have your back from prep to serving, guaranteeing that each element of the dish will be ready at the same time.

Recommendation: BOSH! on a Budget by Henry Firth and Ian Theasby will appeal to a wide variety of vegan and vegetarian cooks. The book is especially helpful to new cooks and, of course, anyone looking to save some money but still eat healthfully. Because I'm not a big fan of vegan meat and dairy substitutes, I'm inclined to adapt the recipes to suit our needs. On the other hand, those who are following a vegan diet for any number of reasons will appreciate having vegan copy-cat recipes in their arsenal.

Note: Photo credit: Lizzie Mayson.

book cover of Body Harmony by Nicole BerrieThe second cookbook is Body Harmony by Nicole Berrie, who is the person behind the Bonberi website. Thanks to Abrams Books for providing me with the review copy of this cookbook as part of the Abrams Dinner Party.

Like many other people around the world, Berrie turned to a vegan lifestyle after years of dieting and general food confusion. In the first chapters of Body Harmony, Berrie talks about her lifelong struggles with eating as well as her journey to finding peace and balance in her body and soul. She clearly and frankly talks about her food philosophy and how she is able to "maximize digestion and energy" through food combining, intuitive eating, and making sensible choices, while still indulging and enjoying her meals.

Whether you have similar issues as Berrie's or not, you'll find plenty of delicious eating within the pages of Body Harmony. The recipes are incredibly appealing and easy to make. Few (if any) recipes rely on tofu or soy "meat" products, and almost all of the ingredients are readily available to everyone, even those in a small town.

photo of salad in a wooden bowlAs is often the case, I was drawn to the salads first. I love a good chopped salad and was thrilled to see several included in Body Harmony, such as Mexican Chop, Italian Chopped Salad (yum!), and Joe's Chopped Salad (from a Miami restaurant; see photo). I made the Spicy Roasted Broccoli, the Chickpea Tuna (no tuna involved and delicious), the Creamy Cilantro Rice, the vegan Chopped Liver (see recipe), and the Rigatoni alla Vodka. Recipes I've marked to try include Buffalo Cauliflower, Soba Noodle Salad, Spinach Dill Rice, Lemony Oregano Potatoes, and Simple Massaged Kale Salad with Beets and Avocado.

The recipes were all easy to make and 100% successful. So many of the dishes called to me and fit my tastes and eating style. I also liked that Berrie introduces each dish with a personal story or tips for substitutions or serving.

Recommendation: I like that Body Harmony by Nicole Berrie can be used on a number of levels. For me, it's a source of yummy plant-based dishes to supplement my omnivorous diet. Others will be taken by Berrie's personal health journey and her food philosophy. Vegans and vegetarians will likely give this cookbook a permanent place in their kitchen as a source for easy, delicious, go-to recipes.

Like Berrie, I grew up eating chopped (chicken) liver at almost every family gathering. My fraternal grandmother made the best chopped liver I've ever eaten. Because I have several vegetarian and vegan friends and family members, I was excited to try Berrie's vegan version of a childhood favorite. Note that I didn't have parsley in the house, so I used some torn basil in the photo. The spread is fabulous; the texture and flavor are perfect. Next time I make this, I'll cut the recipe in half or to a third; it made a lot for just the two of us (not that we had any trouble eating it all).

Chopped Liver
vegan pate on a square plate with crackersMakes about 3 cups

  • 6 tablespoons (90 ml) avocado oil
  • 1 large yellow or white onion chopped, or 2 cups (420 g) chopped onion
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 tablespoon tamari
  • 2 cups (150 g) brown lentils, cooked
  • 1 cup (105 g) raw walnuts
  • 1 teaspoon sea salt
  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
  • Freshly chopped parsley for garnish
In a large saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of the oil. Add the onion, garlic, and tamari and saute on medium-high heat for 5 to 7 minutes, until cooked down. Let cool. Transfer the onion mixture to a food processor or blender and add the lentils, walnuts, and remaining 4 tablespoons (60 ml) of the oil, the salt, and pepper. Blend until creamy. Serve as a dip with crudities or use as a "pate" spread.

Note: The recipe is used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photos are my own.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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28 May 2022

Two New Cookbooks (Weekend Cooking)

book cover of For the Table by Anna StockwellI know summer officially starts on June 21, but here in the States, we consider Memorial Day weekend as the real start of the season. We don't have a lot plans for the holiday, but hamburgers and hotdogs are definitely on the horizon.

Today I want to introduce you to two cookbooks I've been enjoying this spring. Next week, I'll review two new vegan cookbooks.

The first cookbook is perfect for those of us who like to host friends and family for casual dinners but need to figure out how to accommodate a variety of eating styles, allergies, and so on. Anna Stockwell's new cookbook For the Table is full of advice and menus to help you make all your guests feel well fed and cared for, no matter their diet. Thanks to Abrams for providing me with a review copy as part of the Abrams Dinner Party.

Besides recipes, Stockwell offers advice on how to prepare for dinner guests, gives us ideas for conversation starters and games, and provides timeline and prep advice for each menu. Note, too, that every recipe in For the Table is clearly marked as gluten-free, vegan, meat-free, dairy-free, and/or pescatarian. As an added bonus for those of you who are gluten sensitive, every recipe in this book is safe for you to eat because Stockwell herself must avoid gluten.

Photo of chicken on platter and bowls of saucesTo be honest, I'm not generally a fan of menu cookbooks, but For the Table is an exception for a couple of reasons. First, her menus are based on two principal dishes, either of which could stand as the main, though one is generally more protein heavy than the other. Stockwell suggests options for sauces and side dishes and provides a quick recipe or two to accommodate what she calls "other dietary restrictions." Of course, you need not follow the menus to a tee, and I swapped dishes to suit our tastes and needs. Finally, Stockwell tells us when a recipe can be halved or quartered to serve fewer people, so the recipes can be adapted for everyday use.

Here are a couple examples of menus: For winter, serve red wine-braised short ribs with Gorgonzola baked polenta. Round out the menu with a salad and a gremolata. Stockwell offers quick pantry and freezer alternatives for vegetarian or pescatarian guests. One of the summer menus stars za'atar grilled eggplant and zucchini served with a blue cheese and tomato salad. Add-ons include sauces for the veggies and chickpea scocca. Serve a different salad if you have dairy-free and vegan guests.

I made Crunchy Winter Salad (see recipe below), Spring Greens with Fried Dates, Grilled Paprika Chicken with Garlic Vinegar (see my photo), and the grilled zucchini and eggplant mentioned above. I have plenty more dishes marked to try, especially for later in the season when the farmer's markets are in full swing.

Recommended for pretty much everyone. I think gluten-free cooks will especially like For the Table by Anna Stockwell, but really it's a cookbook that most of us will find useful. The subtitle says it all: "Easy, adaptable, crowd-pleasing recipes."

The second cookbook is for all you carb lovers. That Noodle Life by Mike Le and Stephanie Le (of the blog I am a Food Blog) is your guide to all things pasta, from Asian-inspired noodle bowls to lasagna, to mac and cheese. Thanks to Workman for providing me with a copy of this cookbook as part of their Workman Ambassador program.

Stepping beyond just noodle recipes, the Les provide a guide to all the different kinds of available noodles, instructions on properly preparing noodles, and how to top and serve your finished dish. I especially like the features, which are riffs on a type of noodle or noodle dish. For example, the authors give us ten ideas for using various kinds of instant noodles in soups, a section all about laksa, and a fun feature on using lasagna noodles.

The recipes themselves are easy to follow and are fairly inventive. That Noodle Life tells us how to make Oven-Roasted Yakiudon Al Pastor (taco-inspired noodles), Philly Cheesesteak Noodles, Spicy Sesame Chili Oil Noodles (really easy, really good), Garlic-Butter Bucatini with Oyster Sauce, Pumpkin Sage Mac and Cheese, and Wonton Noodle Soup Like They Do in Hong Kong.

photo of a bowl of pasta, a wine bottle, and glassI've made several noodle dishes from That Noodle Life. I admit I was drawn to the quickest, easiest dishes, but ambitious cooks will find plenty of recipes to keep them occupied. Those who are able to get fresh seafood or have a local well-stocked Asian market will find new ideas for serving their favorite ingredients.

Recommendation: If you like noodles, you should give That Noodle Life by Mike and Stephanie Le a try. Vegetarians will find a number of appropriate recipes; vegans and gluten-free eaters will want to look through the cookbook before buying. Visit I am a Food Blog to learn more about the Les and to try some of their recipes.

The following recipe is from For the Table. As one of my fellow Abrams Dinner Party participants said, "It may be called a winter salad, but it's good all year round." I used both daikon and watermelon radishes because the little bit of pink was pretty.

Crunchy Winter Salad
Serves 6; can be halved

  • 1 large or 2 small daikon radishes, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 2 fennel bulbs, thinly sliced
  • 4 ribs celery, thinly sliced on a bias
  • 2 green apples, thinly sliced
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 2 tablespoons white balsamic or white wine vinegar
  • 1 cup (40 g) loosely packed fresh basil leaves
Place the radish, fennel, celery, and apples in a large bowl of ice water and let sit until ready to serve, up to 3 hours. This keeps everything safe from oxygen exposure, which would cause browning, but the ice also makes everything extra-crispy, so don't skip this step even if you're serving in 30 minutes. When ready to serve, drain and spin dry in a salad spinner if you have one, or spread out on a clean dish towel and pat dry. Transfer to a large salad or mixing bowl. Season with salt, and toss to combine. Then drizzle with the vinegar, and toss to combine again. Transfer to a serving platter and top with the basil to serve.

Note: The recipe and scan are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photo is my own.

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21 May 2022

Colu Cooks Easy Fancy Food by Colu Henry (Weekend Cooking)

cover of Colu Cooks Easy Fancy Food by Colu HenryToday’s cookbook made me excited for summer and the prospect of having friends and family over for dining on the deck. Colu Cooks Easy Fancy Food, by Colu Henry (which I received from Abrams Books) isn’t just for entertaining, though. I found most dishes will work just fine for the two of us on a weeknight.

The style and feel of Colu Cooks Easy Fancy Food is simple elegance. In fact, Henry notes in her introduction that she was inspired by the classic years of Gourmet Magazine. I’m not surprised, since she’s no stranger to food writing. You can find her work in the likes of the New York Times and Food & Wine.

As the title suggests, many of the finished dishes in this cookbook are indeed fancy sounding and plate up beautifully. Still, at the same time, the recipes themselves are true to author's promise: almost all of them are fairly easy to throw together.

It’s interesting that Henry admits she’s no baker, so for the sweets chapter, she called on her friends to “bring a dessert” to the party. I love that she’s confident enough to know her weaknesses as well as her strengths.

overhead shot of cake topped with an orange sliceSome of the recipe and chapter names reflect Henry’s personality: Pretending I’m Vacationing in Italy Salad (cucumbers, mozzarella, prosciutto, fresh herbs, olive oil); Seven Fish, No Feast (the fish chapter); and More Shrimp Than You Think Pasta (shrimp, fennel, chile peppers, herbs, mezzi rigatoni). Others, of course, are straight to the point: Pan-Roasted Chicken Thighs with Asparagus and Charred Scallion-Sesame Salsa, Steak Sandwiches on Buttered Toast with Aioli and Spicy Greens, and Broiled Mussels with Panko and Pecorino.

I’ve made several recipes from Colu Cooks Easy Fancy Food, and all were successful and simple to make. For example, we make beans quite often, but found her Pot of Beans, with its fresh herbs and garlic, a welcome change from our usual Tex-Mex versions. We also liked her Sausage, Pepper, and Onions with Melty Caprese, which is a kind of sheet pan dish. Alexandra Stafford’s Orange, Olive Oil, and Almond Torte, which had the perfect balance of tart and sweet, was delicious for afternoon tea and for dessert (see my photo).

The winning dish was the Gingery Lamb Meatballs with Tomato Confit Broth and Seeded Yogurt (though I didn’t make the yogurt; see the scan). I’ll make these meatballs again and again. I used the called-for ground lamb, but I’m sure they’d be just as good with beef or chicken. The Cherry Tomato Confit (see recipe below) was so easy to make, and, according to Henry, it can be popped into the freezer. I plan to make a big batch this summer when the cherry tomatoes are abundant at the farmer’s markets.

overhead shot of meatballs in a tomato brothSome of the recipes I hope to try are the Roasted Squash Soup, Indian-Spiced Yogurt Chicken, Citrus-Braised Short Ribs, Summer Corn Salad with Shrimp, Blistered Green Beans and Tomatoes with Harissa Butter, and Rice Salad for a Screened-In Porch Dinner.

Recommendation: Colu Henry’s Colu Cooks Easy Fancy Food is recommended for cooks looking to spark up their dinner table with not too much effort. This cookbook is also great for those of us who like to use recipes as inspiration, tweaking main ingredients or herbs and spices to use what we already have on hand. While the book includes a number of meat-free recipes, I suggest vegetarians and vegans look before buying. Gluten-free eaters will find many recipes to suit their needs.

The following recipe for tomato confit can be frozen for up to 6 months. The author suggests using it as a base for pasta sauce, to enhance soups and stews, to add to beans, to spoon over cheese on toasted bread, and to turn into a broth by adding stock. Note that I cut the recipe in half and used both thyme and rosemary.

Cherry Tomato Confit
Makes about 6 cups (900 ml)
Time: 50 minutes

  • 3 pounds (1.4 kg) heirloom cherry tomatoes, in a variety of shapes and colors
  • 1 cup (240 ml) virgin olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
  • 6 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
  • kosher salt
  • 8 sprigs thyme or rosemary, or a combination of both
Preheat the oven to 300F (150C). Place the tomatoes in two 9 by 13-inch (23 by 33 cm) baking dishes in one layer. Add the oil, red pepper flakes, and garlic and season well with salt. Stir to make sure the tomatoes are well coated in the oil. Nestle in the herbs.

Roast, stirring a couple of times, until the tomatoes begin to burst and the skins begin to look pleasantly wrinkled, 40 to 50 minutes.

Allow to come to room temperature, remove the herb sprigs, and then store in an airtight container, pouring any residual liquid over the top. They will keep in the fridge for a couple of weeks or freeze for up to 6 months.

Note: The recipe and scan are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photo is my own.

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14 May 2022

A Kitchen Miscellany (Weekend Cooking)

Happy Saturday! In today's Weekend Cooking post, I talk about two books and a some delicious bread. Let's start with the bread.

Photo of a box of baked goodsLast month, the company Wildgrain reached out to me to see if I wanted a review box of their artisan sourdough breads and pasta. I did a little research, and saw nothing but positive reviews about Wildgrain's products and services. Now that I've worked with the company and baked their breads, I couldn't agree more.

Here's how their delivery subscription works. For $89 a month (which includes shipping), you receive a box of frozen goodies. A typical box includes three loaves of sourdough bread, two packages of hand-cut pasta, a bag of sourdough rolls, and a bag of croissants. Everything arrives frozen, ready for the freezer. The products are non-GMO and vegetarian, use unbleached flour, and contain no artificial colors.

photo of a sourdough bread loafMy box contained a plain sourdough loaf, a sourdough sesame seed loaf, a sourdough cranberry pecan loaf, fresh fettuccine, fresh tonnarelli, chocolate croissants, and sourdough rolls. One of the really great things about the Wildgrain products is that you bake directly from the freezer. No thawing required. You simply preheat the oven as directed, place the bread directly on the oven rack (croissants go on sheet pan) and wait about 25 minutes for the magic to happen. The hardest part of baking Wildgrain bread is letting it sit for 10-15 minutes so it can cool a bit and finish baking. The bread smells sooooo good, you want to eat it immediately. Okay, so I confess, we did eat the rolls pretty much right away.

photo of chocolate croissantsThe breads and rolls are everything you want from a sourdough: crusty crust with a tangy soft interior (see my photo). The chocolate croissants (see my photo) were to die for. Seriously good and not overly sweet. Both pastas cooked quickly and were every bit as delicious as any fresh pasta I've had.

When I did a price comparison with local artisan bakeries and vendors at our farmer's markets, I found the cost for Wildgrain to be competitive both for the sourdough bread and fresh pasta. The advantage of a Wildgrain subscription is that you have the breads on hand for spontaneous baking.

I noticed on the Wildgrain website that they're currently running a special (free extra croissants for life) for people who subscribe by the end of May. Note that I get no commission if you subscribe. I did get my box for free, but my thoughts are completely honest. We loved our Wildgrain products and also loved the convenience of home delivery and knowing we could have fresh bread, even when I didn't feel like baking myself.

For more information visit the Wildgrain website and read their FAQ. Thanks again to Wildgrain for the opportunity to try their products.

book cover of Good Eats: The Final Years by Alton BrownNext, I want to alert you to Alton Brown's new cookbook: Good Eats: The Final Years. (Thanks to Abrams for sending me the review copy.) I loved Brown's Food Network shows Good Eats and the spin-off shows subtitled "Reloaded" and "The Return." This cookbook is very much an offspring of the television series, with each chapter linked to a specific Reloaded or Return episode.

As you would expect from Alton Brown, the Good Eats cookbook covers practical advice (like how to spatchcock a chicken), food history (all about dates), food science (how milk fat foams), and so much more. The book is amply illustrated with photos from the television set, drawings, step-by-step photos of techniques, and the like.

There is an incredible amount of information in this 400+-page cookbook. I'll turn to Good Eats: The Final Years for answers to my culinary questions and to revisit the special zaniness that Brown brings to his kitchen lessons. I haven't yet cooked from this book, but I want to point out some things of interest. Good Eats includes a recipe for a Gluten-Free Flour Mix (see below), a thorough section on immersion cooking (kind of like, but not really, sous vide), a chapter on sourdough, and a chapter on rediscovered grains (like chia, quinoa, and amaranth).

Alton Brown's Good Eats: The Final Years is recommended for fans of Alton Brown and anyone interested in the nitty-gritty of culinary techniques.

book cover of Home Ec for Everyone by Sharon and David BowersFinally, I've been enjoying Sharon and David Bower's Home Ec for Everyone: Practical Life Skills in 118 Projects, which I received as a member of the Workman Ambassador program. When I was in junior high and high school, girls took home ec and boys took shop. At my school, home ec focused on cooking and sewing and not too much on the other adulting skills. Home Ec for Everyone provides a more well-rounded approach to general life skills.

Each short section of the book explains a specific skill or a useful household bit of knowledge, complete with charming drawings by Sophia Nicolay (see the cover). For example, in the kitchen chapter, you'll find information on equipment and appliances, on basic cooking skills, on how to properly prepare and store food, and even cleaning advice. The laundry chapter includes a chart for deciphering laundry labels in clothing and helps you figure out whether your "dry clean only" shirt can actually be thrown in the washing machine. Besides recipes, activities include simple sewing projects, how to remove stains, how to make a household budget, how to make a household first aid kit, and how to fix a broken zipper.

Whether you're an experienced domestic god or goddess or you're new to taking care of yourself and your living quarters, Home Ec for Everyone deserves a place on your bookshelf. It's a great resource to have on hand next time you have to hem something or need to launder a down comforter or your curtains. I have to note, however, that in the 21st century, much of the information in Sharon and David Bowers's Home Ec for Everyone can be found via a quick internet search. Still, I like the idea of having a basic print resource.

Now for the promised recipe. According to Alton Brown, the following mix is for cookies and "cookie-like baked goods." This is not for bread. This mix will last 6 months in an airtight container. Brown, of course, encourages you to weigh the ingredients instead of using volume measures.

Gluten-Free Flour Mix
Makes about 7 1/2 cups (1000 g)

  • 250 grams (1 3/4 cups plus 1 1/2 teaspoons brown rice flour
  • 250 grams (1 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons) white rice flour
  • 150 grams (1 1/4 cups plus 2 teaspoons) tapioca flour or starch
  • 150 grams (1 cup plus 1 tablespoon) cornstarch
  • 100 grams (1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon and 1/2 teaspoon) potato starch
  • 90 grams (1 cup) nonfat dry milk powder
  • 10 grams (1 tablespoon plus 1/2 teaspoon) xanthan gum
Combine all of the ingredients in a large airtight container.

Note: The recipe is used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photos of the breads are my own.

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07 May 2022

Gullah Geechee Home Cooking by Emily Meggett

Book cover of Gullah Geechee Home Cooking by Emily MeggettHappy Saturday, my friends. I've been absent for the past couple of weeks and wanted to let you know we're fine. We were busy, and I didn't have time to do much interesting cooking to share with you.

Today I want to talk about a special cookbook I received from Abrams because I'm a member of their Abrams Dinner Party review group. Emily Meggett's Gullah Geechee Home Cooking cookbook is a collection of the author's everyday recipes. These dishes not only are often found in Meggett's kitchen but also grace the tables of her neighbors on Edisto Island, South Carolina.

What's more, these foods would likely be familiar to Meggett's ancestors who, despite the odds, preserved many aspects of their African heritage, including farming, crafts, music, and cooking. The Gullah Geechee people share an African creole language that allowed enslaved peoples from diverse homelands to communicate with each other.

I'm pleased to say that the editors of Gullah Geechee Home Cooking wisely preserved Meggett's voice. When I was reading the many stories and informative pieces in the book, I could imagine Meggett was in the room talking to me directly. This added so much to the experience of using this cookbook and helped further one of Meggett's goals:

I hope my book, and these recipes, invite you into our culture, our history, and our present. Through my cooking, I hope you enjoy the best of the South and appreciate the Gullah Geechee influences that have made this region what it is today.
Sliced Banana Bread from Gullah Geechee Home Cooking by Emily MeggettWhen I first opened Gullah Geechee Home Cooking, I was surprised to find so many common recipes, such as crab cakes, slaw, and fried green tomatoes. But after I read the introductory chapters, read some of Meggett's stories, and learned her approach to cooking and ingredients, I couldn't wait to try her versions of dishes I have made often. Many of her recipes have a unique ingredient or come with advice for how to tweak the consistency or spices. Though I've made countless banana breads in my time, the loaves I made following Meggett's recipe were close to the best I've baked (see photo).

I liked the addition of grated bell pepper in the meaty filling for her Stuffed Bell Peppers and the use of two different Cheddars in her Pimento Cheese. Other recipes I tried were Meggett's Creole Shrimp and her version of cornbread. I have more recipes marked to try, including her no-milk Sour Cream Cake and her version of Macaroni and Cheese, which calls for evaporated milk.

It's true that you may already have recipes for a number of the dishes in Gullah Geechee Home Cooking; however, Meggett's versions are well worth trying. Plus she also shares some of her signature dishes, such as Stuffed Fish with Parsley Rice and Roe. I had amazing success with every recipe I tried, but the real beauty and worth of this cookbook is learning about a strong, interesting woman; a beautiful island; and the Gullah Geechee culture. This is a cookbook that's just as important to read as it is to cook from.

Scan of Chicken Perloo from Gullah Geechee Home Cooking by Emily MeggettI recommend Emily Meggett's Gullah Geechee Home Cooking to anyone who wants to help preserve a peoples' heritage and to promote Black cooks and Black American history. This cookbook would make a great gift for new cooks moving into their first apartment or for anyone who would like a reliable source for everyday cooking that will help them nourish the souls of friends and family. Note that vegans and vegetarians may not find a ton of recipes, but I encourage them to check this cookbook out of the library so they can read about Meggett, her family, and her background.

The recipe I'm sharing is for Emily Meggett's Pink Sauce, which is an Edisto Island favorite. The author suggests serving the sauce with "most seafood and fried vegetables," but I also suggest you give it a try on roasted veggies, spooned over hard-boiled eggs, and even with avocados. Enjoy.

Pink Sauce
Makes about 1 1/2 cups (360 ml)

  • 1 small onion, grated
  • 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 1/2 cup (115 g) mayonnaise
  • 1/3 cup (75 ml) ketchup
  • 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
In a large bowl, mix all of the ingredients together.

Note: The recipe and scans are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photo is my own.

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16 April 2022

Weekend Cooking: The Forest Feast Road Trip by Erin Gleeson

Book cover for The Forest Feast Road Trip by Erin GleesonA few years ago, I discovered Erin Gleeson and her Forest Feast cookbooks and website when I received her Mediterranean cookbook via the Abrams Dinner Party. This year, Gleeson has a new cookbook: The Forest Feast Road Trip, which was, as the subtitle says, inspired by her travels through her home state of California. Thank you to Abrams for the review copy.

Of course, The Forest Feast Road Trip is full of fantastic, easy-to-make recipes for vegetarians and vegans, but it also features gorgeous photos of California, such as poppy fields, vineyards, the beach, holiday houses, and farmer's markets. The book closes with resources for easy road trips and places to visit.

While I've marked some future vacation destinations, my current interest is on the recipes. As you know, we eat meat in the BFR household. But because close to half our dinners are vegetarian, I was excited to find fresh ideas in The Forest Feast Road Trip. One of things I really love about Gleeson's books is the way she marries art, photography, and recipes. See the following scan (click to enlarge, if needed) for a good example of how beautiful this cookbook is.

Recipe and photo of corn salad from The Forest Feast Road Trip by Erin Gleeson

Most of the recipes in The Forest Feast Road Trip are based on fresh vegetables with clean, bright flavors. That said, it's important to note that Gleeson also incorporates pre-prepped ingredients when it makes sense, such as canned beans and jarred sauces. Another thing I appreciate about her recipes is that she often gives variations on a theme or makes recommendations for substitutions. For example, one recipe calls for a local goat cheese, but the recipe introduction tells us we can substitute blue cheese or feta in her lovely beet and greens salad.

A pan of vegetarian enchiladasI've made quite a few dishes from this book. One of the most surprising was the mushroom, black bean, and walnut enchiladas (see the photo to the right). The enchiladas were outstanding, and I think I'm going to have to add walnuts to my enchiladas--vegetarian or meat--in the future.

I also really liked her pita tostados, which uses pita bread as the base for a variation on the traditional Mexican dish. Her recipe calls for canned refried black beans as the first layer with a variety of familiar ingredients on top (avocado, Mexican crema, cilantro, etc.). This recipe also comes with a Mediterranean variation: pita toppings include babaganoush, hummus, feta, and chickpeas. Such a great idea and so easy to put together.

Other recipes we tried (and liked) were a chickpea curry stew, veggie calzones, and sweet potato and black bean salad. We had the stew and calzones for dinner and ate the salad for our lunches.

Muffins on a decorative plate; one muffin cut openI also baked her quick blender muffins (see the photo to the left). The main batter consists of eggs, bananas, and oats. You can then put in fruits and/or vegetables to your liking or you can try one of Gleeson's three variations. I made the carrot raisin muffins  per her suggestion. The texture was perfect and, despite the maple syrup and golden raisin, they were not too sweet.

Finally, I made her shortbread, which also had three variations. I couldn't resist trying the brown butter version. We loved the flavor, though the texture (due to the melted butter) wasn't quite what we were used to.

Recommendation: If you can't tell, I love Erin Gleeson's The Forest Feast Road Trip. The recipes are easy, pretty, and tasty. This book is perfect for anyone who enjoys vegetarian and vegan dinners and is looking for new ideas.

For a sample recipe from The Forest Feast Road Trip, either click through to the Forest Feast website or enlarge the scan above for a vegan salad. If you want to make the corn salad, you'll need the recipe for the tahini dressing:
Whisk together 1/4 cup (60 ml) tahini, 1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil, 3 tablespoons lemon juice (about 1 lemon), 2 teaspoons agave, 1 grated garlic clove, water to thin (add 1 teaspoon at a time for desired consistency).
Note: The scan and recipe are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photos are mine.

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26 March 2022

Weekend Cooking: Salad Freak by Jess Damuck

book cover of Salad Freak by Jess DamuckI'm so thrilled that the spring and summer cookbooks are starting to hit the bookshelves . . . and my doorstep. Thanks to Abrams Books and the Abrams Dinner Party for a copy of the cookbook I'm talking about today.

Salad Freak, which comes out next Tuesday, is an entire cookbook of delicious and unique salads. It's written by Jess Damuck, who after attending the French Culinary Institute went on to cook for Martha Stewart for more than a decade. Damuck perfected many of the recipes found in this book during those years.

We eat a lot of salads in the BFR household, often at lunch and almost always as a side dish to dinner. I usually put together a fairly typical salad, such as tossed, wedge, pasta, chopped, nicoise, or caprese. However, once I started looking through Salad Freak, I was inspired to broaden my horizons, especially because the cookbook is full of beautiful photographs of delicious-looking dishes.

Most of my readers are experienced cooks, but younger or less confident cooks will want to pay attention to the beginning chapters, which give advice on pantry items and equipment and how to shop for, wash, and store fresh produce. All of us will appreciate Damuck's playlist of "music to make salads by," which can be downloaded from Spotify.

A serving dish with a composed salad from Salad Freak by Jess DamuckThe recipes in Salad Freak are arranged by season and highlight fruits and vegetables during their peak times. Two from the winter chapter are the Caesar Brussels sprouts salad with walnuts and the shaved fennel and tuna salad with a lemony vinaigrette. Spring features a carrot salad with a mustard dressing (see recipe below) and an asparagus, peas, and cucumber salad (see my photo).

Summer includes a BLT potato salad as well as a cantaloupe-cucumber salad with a minty-lime dressing. Finally, the fall chapter provides recipes for a celery and grape salad with smoked almonds (see my photo) and a riff on a Waldorf salad. The final chapter contains recipes for spice mixes, dressings, and the like.

I also made the lamb meatball salad (no photo), which was delicious. The meatballs were so good that I plan to make them again for other dishes too. I have a bean and farro salad on the menu for tonight.

This is a cookbook I didn't know I needed until I started cooking from it, and I can't wait to make the many recipes I have flagged to try. I think I've become a bit of salad freak myself.

Note that most of the salads will fit a vegetarian diet and many will work for vegans, though a few do contain meat or fish. Most of the finished dishes are gluten-free as well. For each recipe, Damuck includes the inspiration behind each dish and often provides tips for meal pairings, preparing, and serving.

a composed salad from Salad Freak by Jess DamuckI can't end this review without talking about two aspects of Salad Freak I wish were different. First, as discussed in the introduction of the cookbook, Damuck assumes you'll be serving the salads almost immediately, so there are no make-ahead or storage tips (or none that I noticed). I'm the primary cook in my house and so prefer to make my side salads ahead of time. I didn't have any trouble figuring out how to balance finishing the salad with finishing up the main dish, but some cooks might.

The other issue has to do with the way the ingredients are presented. Instead being listed in the order needed (the cookbook industry standard), the ingredients are separated into sections labeled produce, dairy, meat, and pantry. The recipe directions indicate how to prepare or cut the produce and other ingredients. I'm a mise en place kind of cook, so I'm not a big fan of this recipe format--though I easily adapted.

The good news is that every recipe in Salad Freak either I or the other Abrams Dinner Party members made was a huge success. The salads were both beautiful and delicious. I wouldn't let the unconventional ingredient list prevent you from giving Salad Freak by Jess Damuck a try.

The recipe I'm sharing is for the carrot salad, which I served with BBQ ribs. The salad was delicious right away and again the next day at lunch. Note that Damuck suggests cutting the carrots with a julienne peeler, but I used the julienne disk in my food processor.

Carrots for Lauryn
photo of carrot salad from Salad Freak by Jess Damuckserves 2 to 4 as a side

  • Produce
  • 1 lemon
  • 4 medium to large carrots
  • 1 handful fresh parsley
  • Pantry
  • 2 tablespoons grainy mustard
  • 1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Make the lemon and mustard vinaigrette: In a large bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons mustard, 1/4 cup (60 ml) oil, and the zest and juice of 1 lemon. Season with salt and pepper.

Prep, assemble, and serve: Peel and julienne 4 carrots and add to the bowl with the dressing. Roughly chop 1 handful of parsley and add to the bowl. Season to taste and toss to combine. You're done; that's it. Really.

Note: The recipe is used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photos are my own.

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08 January 2022

Weekend Cooking: Southern Living 2021 Annual Recipes

Book cover of Southern Living 2021 Annual RecipesYou've heard me rave about Southern Living recipes many times on this blog, so it should come as no surprise that I was excited to receive a review copy of Southern Living 2021 Annual Recipes from Abrams as part of the Abrams Dinner Party Review team.

This cookbook collects the entire year of recipes from the magazine and presents them with beautiful photographs along with tips, variations, and serving ideas. The cookbook is arranged by month, so you can pick recipes based on what's in season or by occasion, like burgers, peaches, and berries in the summer and soups, stews, and clementines in the winter. Features group recipes into suggested menus, such as a BBQ party that fuses traditional Korean flavors with Southern classics.

Though the Southern Living 2021 Annual is founded on the year's magazine issues, it offers several bonuses. The front of the book lists the readers' favorite recipes from each month, and throughout you'll find extra recipes shared by Southern Living readers and staff members. These are tried-and-true favorites and are presented with a personal story. Each month ends with a Southern Living "Cooking School" feature that presents a variety of trips and tricks from the magazine's test kitchen.

Photo of mini meatloaves and vegetables in a cast-iron skilletOne of my favorite chapters is December because it has a lot of party ideas and recipes for snacks, cookies and gifts. I appreciate that the chapter moves beyond Christmas to include some Hanukkah and Kawanzaa ideas. The other section I'll turn to often is found at the end of the Southern Living 2021 Annual: almost 20 pages of appetizer and nibble recipes--cold, hot, dips, snacky, elegant--something for almost every get-together.

I relied on this cookbook quite a bit over the last several weeks. As I expected, everything was delicious. The photos here show my versions of Red Rice, a dish with West Africa roots that can easily be made vegetarian; Chicken-and-Quinoa Salad with Pepper Jelly Dressing, which I made with farro because Mr. BFR is not a fan of quinoa (it was still really delicious); and Skillet Turkey Meatloaves with Mushroom Gravy, though my photo shows beef meatloaves and was taken before I added the gravy.

Poto of a chicken and grain saladI also made a half dozen other recipes, some vegetarian (a sheet pan lasagna) and some with meat (like flank steak). I served the beet and goat cheese dip for Christmas Eve dinner and a layered nacho-inspired dip for New Years Eve. I have many more recipes marked to try throughout the coming year. I'm sure the Southern Living 2021 Annual will be one of my go-to cookbooks.

Recommendation: Southern Living: 2021 Annual Recipes is for anyone looking for some new ideas for both everyday family cooking and for meals with friends, from summer cookouts to cozy winter evenings by the fire, from special occasions to casual Sunday brunch. Vegetarians will find a number of appropriate recipes. Gluten-free and vegan eaters will also find recipes, though the dishes aren't marked by diet preference.

Instead of recipe, I decided to share the following "Puff Pastry Pointers" from the cookbook. Note that many of Southern Living's recipes can be found on their website.
Photo of a rice and tomato casserole

  • Do defrost it. Thaw the frozen puff pastry in the refrigerator overnight or for 40 minutes at room temperature.
  • Do keep it cool. If the pastry starts to soften and turn limp, pop it back in the refrigerator to resolidify the butter. Keep unused sheets frozen or chilled.
  • Don't skip the flour. Generously flour the work surface and rolling pin to prevent the puff pastry from sticking and tearing.
  • Don't toss the scraps. Roll extra bits of pastry in cinnamon sugar, and bake it for a cook's treat. or roll in Parmesan cheese and black pepper for a savory snack.
  • Don't unfold puff pastry sheets until they are fully thawed and pliable. If the pastry is still a bit frozen, it will crack or tear.
Note: The tips are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photos are my own.

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All content and photos (except where noted) copyright © cbl for Beth Fish Reads 2008-2020. All rights reserved.

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