Weekend Cooking: 5 New Cookbooks

Happy Saturday! Today's Weekend Cooking is an attempt to catch you up with just some of this season's great cookbooks. I'm overwhelmed with the number of super titles coming out this year, and I don't have enough Saturdays to give each one a full review of its own.

My current solution is to include a mini-review roundup every few weeks. You can also see photos on my Instagram stories as I cook my way through the season. Who knows, I may get daring and publish more than one cooking post a week!

Thanks to the individual publishers for the review copies of the following cookbooks; all thoughts are my honest opinion.

First up is Matty Matheson's Home Style Cookery (Abrams; Sept. 29). You may remember I reviewed his first cookbook, which was also published by Abrams. Matheson's second book, which was given to me as part of the Abrams Dinner Party, lives up to its title; the recipes are truly meant for home cooking, and many are just fancy enough to make you feel good about what you're serving while remaining down to earth and easy to make. One of my favorite chapters is all about broths or stocks, and I love that Matheson included several vegetarian versions. The sesame seed rolls from the bread section is a Dinner Party favorite, as is the chocolate zucchini cake, which I'm planning to bake this weekend. I tried and liked the green olive tapenade and the one-hour bolognese. Pictured are the Hello Dollies (see recipe below). I gave half the pan to one of my neighbors, and everyone raved about how good they are. I have the Italian beef (braised roast with pickled veggies served as a sandwich) marked to try soon. Recommendation: Matty Matheson is a well-known Canadian chef who tells it like it is, which makes Home Style Cookery fun to read and easy to cook from. Even if Matheson's style doesn't match yours, the broth chapter is not to be missed. Oh and that zucchini chocolate cake recipe too!

It seems that cocktails are making a comeback, and I can see why. What else is there to do to pass the time as we enter week whatever it is of quarantine? I received J. M. Hirsch's Shake Strain Done: Craft Cocktails at Home (Voracious, Nov. 3) as part of the Voracious Ambassador Program. More than just a collection of recipes for delicious drinks (see my photo of the Cardamomattan), this book includes interesting and valuable information about the different types of cocktails, advice on expanding one's drink repertoire, basic techniques and equipment, how to garnish, and how to stock your home bar. Don't forget to read the introduction to each cocktail you decide to make; there you'll find tips on mixing, what to expect flavor-wise, suggested variations, and more. As I've mentioned often, wine is our daily drink of choice, but sometimes it's fun to try something new, and I always enjoy serving--and drinking--a well-made, well-balanced cocktail. Recommendation: Pick up J. M. Hirsch's Shake Strain Done to discover what's happening in the world of cocktails. I bet you'll find a few new favorite drink recipes within its pages.

Whether you use an official sheet pan or just a regular baking pan, one-dish dinners that you can slip into the oven and forget about for a while make dinner a breeze. Sheet Pan Chicken by Cathy Erway (Ten Speed Press; Sept. 29) is full of great ideas for chicken lovers. Besides the recipes, Erway includes tips on equipment, oven temperatures, and spice blends as well as advice for using various cuts of chicken and spatchcocked chicken. The recipes are flavorful (including Mideast, Asian, European, and New World spices) and doable for any level cook. Your main kitchen job is cutting veggies. I made the roasted romaine chicken Caesar, mustard chicken, curried thighs, and several others. Everything came out great, and I have several more dinners to try, including wings with eggplant and basil and the soy sauce chicken with pineapple and bok choy. Recommendation: Cathy Erway's Sheet Pan Chicken is a welcome addition to my bookshelf and would make a good gift for inexperienced or young cooks. Veteran home cooks who are familiar with the sheet pan method should probably check this cookbook out from the library. You'll use the recipes as is and will be inspired to come up with new combos to perk up your weeknight dinners.

The last two cookbooks will help you make pie baking part of your everyday life. Yes, I've already reviewed one super pie book this month and I'm still going pie crazy. I received digital review copies of the following pie books but love them so much I bought hard copies of both!

I've been a fan of Ken Haedrich for years and years (does anyone else remember his cooking column from Country Journal magazine?). In fact, it was one of his recipes that inspired me to bake my first batch of homemade crackers. The subtitle of his new cookbook, Pie Academy (Storey; Oct. 27), says it all: "Master the Perfect Crust and 255 Amazing Fillings, with Fruits, Nuts, Creams, Custards, Ice Cream, and More; Expert Techniques for Making Fabulous Pies from Scratch." How do I love thee cookbook? Let me count the ways. The first thing you'll notice when you start flipping through is the fabulous photos that detail every aspect of basic pie baking, from measuring to mixing to rolling. Next is the incredible wealth of information; Haedrich doesn't just tell you to roll out a pie crust, he tells you how hard to press on the rolling pin! Ever want to mail a pie? Haedrich tells you how. I learned all about the different fats to use in my crusts and the different thickeners to mix with my fruit, I discovered how to crimp, how to transfer the top crust to the pie, how to vent, and more. I had no idea there were so many different kinds of pie crusts (including gluten free!) and toppings. I can't wait to learn them all. The pie photo above is my rendition of the pear pie with a coffeecake-like topping. I'm not sure I've ever made a pear pie before, but now that I have, you can bet my fall baking will include pears as often as apples. Throughout the cookbook, Haedrich includes tips and tricks, tells stories, and shows hands-on photos. The recipes themselves cover the range from fruit to custard, deep-dish to slab, and everything in between. Recommendation: You need Ken Haedrich's Pie Academy in your kitchen. If you've ever been a little unsure about pie, fret no more! If you're an old hand at pies, here's where to find new combos and be inspired. Buy this one.

So, you might ask, if I already have two new pie books, why would I need a third. Well, let me tell you what puts Kate McDermott's Pie Camp (Countryman Press; Oct. 6) on my buy list. McDermott starts out as you might expect, with solid tips on equipment, ingredients, and techniques. She fills the middle of her cookbook with reliable, easy to follow pie recipes for fruit, custard, chiffon, nuts, and more. But here's the genius: she shares a number of "master recipes," which give you the skills and foundations to make your own signature pies. You'll find master recipes for crusts (including gluten free), fillings, toppings, and types of pies (layered, mousse, cream, etc.), along with handy charts of flavor combos and ratios of ingredients. Throughout you'll find lovely photos, pie facts and history, and tips and tricks. The cookbook also contains recipes for crisps and crumbles, heirloom pies, and even muffin tin pies and mini tarts. McDermott also provides directions for all kinds of toppings and extras, like roasting nuts and making the perfect meringue. Recommendation: If you're ready to take your pie baking to the next stage, Kate McDermott's Pie Camp is your perfect guide. Beginners to experts will find a lot to love in this cookbook. I'm looking forward to mastering the master recipes.

And here is the promised recipe. Note that I didn't have butterscotch chips in the house, so I used white chocolate chips and subbed dark chocolate chips for the semisweet. You really do need two different kinds; pick whichever flavors call to you.

Hello Dollies
From Matty Matheson's Home Style Cookery

• 1 cup (225 g) unsalted butter, melted
• 1 (14.4 oz/408 g) box of graham cracker crumbs
• 1 (12 oz/326 g) bag butterscotch chips
• 1 (12 oz/326 g) bag semisweet chocolate chips
• 1 (8 oz/227 g) unsweetened shredded coconut
• 1 (14 oz/397 g) can sweetened condensed milk
• 1/2 cup (55 g) chopped walnuts

Preheat the oven to 350F (175C). Line a 8 x 12-inch baking pan with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, combine the butter and graham cracker crumbs and mix until the crumbs are soft and pliable.

Pack the wet graham crumble mixture into the lined pan. Layer three-quarters of the butterscotch chips, chocolate chips, and coconut over the graham mixture. Pour the can of condensed milk over the mixture and top with the remaining butterscotch chips, chocolate chips, and coconut. Top with the walnuts.

Place in the oven and bake for 25 minutes, or until the condensed milk starts to bubble. Remove from the oven and place on a wire rack. Slice into squares and serve warm or at room temperature. To serve cold, cool completely, place in the fridge and allow to set, then slice into squares.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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Weekend Cooking: The Full Plate by Ayesha Curry

One of my new favorite cookbooks from this fall is The Full Plate by Ayesha Curry, which I received as part of the Voracious Ambassadors Program. The idea behind this cookbook is easy, flavorful recipes that have wide appeal, are easy to adapt, and can be made in under an hour. I work from home and love to cook, but that doesn't mean I want to slave in the kitchen on a regular basis.

Curry's new cookbook is perfect for busy weeks and for those evenings when the more-elaborate meal I had planned is just not gonna happen. In my dishwasher-less house, I also appreciate that most of the recipes in The Full Plate require minimal pots and thus end in speedy evening cleanup.

You'll find a variety of flavors in The Full Plate, including tropical, Italian, Mexican, and American Southern. The vast majority of the recipes use ordinary ingredients you'll be able to find no matter where you live, and many of the pantry items are probably already in your kitchen.

Here are some of the recipes I've already made: The sheet pan sausage dinner, a riff on the classic county fair sausage sandwich, was super quick and perfect after an active day outside (see my photo). The quinoa salad, with avocado, feta, and cilantro, made a satisfying couple of lunches. The spiced-rubbed chicken with chickpeas and tomatoes was super easy and really tasty. The lamb pasta bake, which could be made with any ground meat, is one of Mr. BFR's new favorite dinners (see scan from the cookbook). The flank steak sandwiches with blue cheese and quick pickled red onions was a great fall dinner on the deck (we grilled the steak instead of cooking it on the stove top).

Here are some recipes I have marked to try: chicken Parmesan burgers; citrus-glazed salmon; shrimp fajitas; paprika chicken; beet, walnut, and goat cheese salad; and roasted pears with a vanilla caramel sauce. For dessert, I'd like to give her version of rice pudding a try, and there are also a few cocktail recipes that caught my eye.

The recipes directions are clearly written and should be accessible to almost all levels of cooks. Every recipe I've tried has turned out perfectly and was indeed completed in under an hour. One thing I look for in a cookbook is well-seasoned dishes; The Full Plate doesn't disappoint. No bland dinners here.

The recipe introductions offer serving suggestions and variations and give you sense of Curry's personality. The full page photos of the finished dishes will make your mouth water, and the photos of Curry's family keep the book down to earth.

Recommendation: Put Ayesha Curry's The Full Plate on your buy list or gift list. I know I'll be turning to it often, whether to make a recipe exactly as written or for a good idea when I can't think of what to make. One caveat, the recipes are meat and fish heavy, so vegetarians should borrow before buying.

For what to expect in The Full Plate, visit Ayesha Curry's website and browse her recipes. It looks like the site hasn't been updated in a while, but you can still get an idea of Curry's style.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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Weekend Cooking: Pie for Everyone by Petra Paredez

I'm not quite sure why, but fall 2020 is turning out to be the season of the pie cookbook. I'm not kidding, I have at least four cookbooks devoted to pie baking in my review queue. Fortunately, we love pie, and I'm not going to have a problem baking one or several from each book over the coming weeks.

Now before you go wondering about all that sugar and butter, I have two things to say: (1) Hey, it's fruit, right? and (2) Not all pies are sweet.

Today's pie cookbook is Petra (Petee) Paredez's Pie for Everyone, which I received as part of the Abrams Dinner Party review program. As the subtitle says, this book includes "recipes and stories from Petee's Pie," one of the best pie shops in New York City. The cover gives you hint of what you'll find inside.

More than just a cookbook, Pie for Everyone is a resource for baking basics, like stocking up on equipment, tips and tricks for choosing ingredients, how to measure, three methods for making crust, and even a bit of history. I love the gorgeous photos found throughout the cookbook. Although most of them show the finished pies, I also like beauty shots of ingredients and especially the photos that show step-by-step processes (for example for piping on a topping). Features introduce us to farmers, provide information about foraging, and tell us stories related to pies.

Pie for Everyone has recipes for making baked fruit pies, chilled pies, custard pies, and nut pies. Paredez recommends which crusts and toppings to use for the different pies and also gives us storage information, so we know if we can make a pie ahead or if we have to refrigerate the leftovers.

I made the Sweet Potato Pie, which was an easy and pleasant change from pumpkin. I have the Autumn Pear Pie marked to try and am curious about Paredez's Cheesecake, which Mr. BFR requested. My new favorite pie is the Lemon Chess Pie. So easy to make (see recipe below) and so amazingly good.

Not up for dessert? No worries, Paredez includes a chapter of recipes for savory pies (think: chicken pot pie) and quiches. I made the Meat and Potato Pie, which we both loved. I also plan to bake the Chile Verde Pork Pie and Tomato Ricotta Pie.

I'm already looking forward to spring so I can start baking my way through the berry season, into the stone fruits, and then back to apple and pear. Have rolling pin, will bake pie!

Recommendation: Based on the three pies I made, I'm a fan of Petra Paredez's Pie for Everyone. Next time I'm in New York, I hope I have time to visit Petee's Cafe in Brooklyn or Petee's Pie on the Lower East Side. My only problem will be deciding which pie to order!

Lemon Chess Pie
Note: I added 1 tablespoon of poppy seeds to my filling before baking (the variation to this recipe) and then topped it with whipped cream before serving. And, no, I didn't crimp my crust.

One 9-inch (23-cm) pie

• 1 1/4 cups (250 g) sugar
• 2 tablespoons flour
• 2 tablespoons extra-fine cornmeal
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice, from 2-3 lemons
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
• 1/3 cup (75 ml) buttermilk
• 3 eggs
• 1 egg yolk
• 6 tablespoons (80g) butter, melted and cooled
• 1 bottom crust in pie pan, crimped

Preheat the oven to 400F (205C).

In a medium bowl, whisk together the sugar, flour, cornmeal, and salt. Whisk in the lemon zest and juice, vanilla, buttermilk, eggs, and egg yolk until smooth. Add the melted butter and whisk until well integrated.

Place the crust-filled pie pan on a baking sheet and pour in the filling, making sure to scrape the entire contents from the sides of the bowl into the pan. Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350F (175C) and bake for 40 minutes more, or until the center is puffed up and the top of the pie is golden.

Transfer the pie to a cooling rack and allow the pie to cool completely before slicing. Serve at room temperature. The pie will keep for up to 1 week at room temperature.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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Weekend Cooking: The United States of Cocktails by Brian Bartels

If you follow me on Instagram then you already know how much fun I've been having with Brian Bartels's The United States of Cocktails, which I received as part of the Abrams Dinner Party. We've made four cocktails so far and have really liked each one.

As you might guess from the title, the book is organized by state. Bartels introduces each state with a little history of its bars; its people, inventions, or events that have affected drinking in America; and little-known facts (cleverly called "Bar Snacks"). What follows are short descriptions of the state's iconic bars, beverages, spirits, and so on and then at least two recipes for cocktails either invented in that state or otherwise associated with it.

The big question among the Abrams Dinner Party members, was this: How are you planning on approaching The United States of Cocktails? Some ideas are to to start with the state you were born in, the state you currently live in, the states you hope to visit someday, and the states you love to visit. I picked drinks based on spirits I already owned, though we've also made note of the gaps in our liquor cabinet and plan to fill in over the coming months. It'd be fun to serve guests a cocktail that reflected something special in their lives (memorable vacation, college).

We made the Willie Stargell--after all, we live in Pennsylvania (though Mr. BFR is not a Pirates fan, having grown up in the Philadelphia area). We also tried the Screaming Viking (from North Carolina), the Aquavit Bloody Mary (from Minnesota, see recipe below), and Colorado's Blackberry Sage Smash. We have several more cocktails marked to try, just as soon as I track down some missing ingredients (like liqueurs and orange bitters).

Although we're mostly wine drinkers, sometimes it's fun to shake up or stir a new cocktail. Brian Bartels's collection of drinks is a great resource for those of us who enjoy a well-balanced adult beverage. The United States of Cocktails gets two thumbs up from me.

Bartels Bloody Mary Mix
Makes about 32 ounces

• 24 ounces tomato juice (I used Campbell's)
• 2 ounces fresh lemon juice
• 2 ounces Worcestershire sauce
• 2 ounces Tabasco chipotle sauce
• 1 tablespoon steak sauce
• 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 teaspoons celery salt

Combine all the ingredients in a nonreactive container. Cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 10 days.

Aquavit Bloody Mary
1 drink

• 1 1/2 ounces aquavit (or gin, tequila, or mezcal)
• 4 to 5 ounces Bartels Bloody Mary Mix
• Garnishes: celery stick, lemon wedge, and olive or pickle

Combine spirit and mix in a chilled pint glass with ice, briefly stir, and add the garnishes.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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