15 October 2022

Take It Easy by Gaby Dalkin of What's Gaby Cooking (Weekend Cooking)

Cover of Take It Easy by Gaby DalkinThose of you who have been reading my blog for a while will recognize Gaby Dalkin, from What's Gaby Cooking. I reviewed her first cookbook, What's Gaby Cooking, in 2018. Her second cookbook, Eat What You Want, came out in 2020. I've cooked many recipes from those books over the years.

Dalkin's newest cookbook is Take It Easy, which came out a couple of weeks ago. I received a copy because I'm a member of the Abrams Dinner Party review group. The subtitle of the cookbook is "Recipes for Zero Stress Deliciousness," and I am here to tell you that the subtitle doesn't lie. Everything I made from Take It Easy was simple to make and really tasty.

Dalkin's attitude toward cooking and entertaining has evolved as her life and the world have changed. Now that she's a mom, she doesn't have the time or desire to spend hours in the kitchen away from her family. In addition, since the pandemic, she is--along with almost all of us--entertaining in a totally different way from before. Gatherings are ever more casual and more about spending time with friends than about making impressive dishes. Laid-back, though, doesn't mean no flavor; it just means a slightly different kind of cuisine.

photo of chicken stir-fry in the panWhat hasn't changed is Dalkin's commitment to "simple, fresh, flavorful food that you can feel really good about eating." Also note that easy doesn't always mean last minute. Many of the recipes get their flavors from do-ahead marinating or pickling, for example. Others benefit from prepping and assembling earlier in the day, so dinnertime itself comes together quickly and effortlessly. The recipes in Take It Easy require no fancy techniques and almost no specialty tools.

Take It Easy includes recipes for the whole day: from breakfast to after-dinner dessert. Dalkin uses familiar pantry items, like canned beans, pickled jalapenos, and canned crushed tomatoes when it makes sense. She's California based, and many ingredients reflect that, such as fresh herbs, specific types of heirloom cherry tomatoes, and fresh fish. I had no trouble finding acceptable replacements at my local grocery. For example, I'm not sure the orange-red tomatoes I got at Wegman's were Sun Golds, but they were the right size and color; that works for me.

Here are some recipes I made:

  • Crispy Chicken Stir-Fry, with garlic, ginger, and bok choy (see photo, taken before the bok choy wilted)
  • Sausage Sheet Pan Supper, with a variety of bell peppers, cherry tomatoes, and a Calabrian pepper vinaigrette
  • Aperol Tequila Spritz, made with lime juice and sparkling water
  • Korean BBQ-Inspired Meatloaf, with kimchi, gochujang, and finely chopped veggies
  • Creamy White Beans, with garlic, rosemary, and spinach topped with a Calabrian chile oil
  • Brussels Sprouts and Brie Gratin, which will absolutely make it a holiday dinner table around here (see photo)
  • Little Gem and Beet Salad, with a green tahini dressing
Photo of finished Brussels SproutsEverything, and I mean everything, was delicious. I've always loved Dalkin's salads, and I have a lot more marked to try. She definitely has a thing for cacio e pepe, because Take It Easy includes a handful of so-named recipes. I'm a fan, so no complaints here. Other members of the Abrams Dinner Party made the no-churn Tiramisu Ice Cream, and that one is on my list either for the holidays or for next summer. By all accounts, it's fabulous. Another winner has been the Cheesy Hamburger Helper-Style Pasta.

Vegetarians might turn to the Buffalo Cauliflower Bowls, Linguine al Limone, Castelvetrano and Artichoke Pizza, or the Spanish-ish Broccoli and Leek Omelet.

Recommendation: I'm a big fan of What's Gaby Cooking and of Gaby Dalkin's cookbooks, so I give Take It Easy two big thumbs up. Vegetarians will find a number of recipes to try and others that will take very little tweaking. Vegans may have less luck.

Here's a recipe that's on my list. Dalkin suggests serving these mushrooms with steak or roasted salmon; I think they'd be great with any simple meat. I'll be using a mix of store-bought mushrooms

photo of cheesy mushroomsCheesy Roasted Mushrooms
Serves 4 to 6

  • 2 pounds (910 g) wild mushrooms, trimmed and torn into large pieces, depending on size
  • 1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
  • Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
  • 1 cup (100 g) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
  • 1 cup (110 g) freshly shredded Gruyere cheese
  • Juice of 1 lemon
Preheat the oven to 425F (220C).

Place the torn mushrooms on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Drizzle with the oil and season with salt, black pepper, and crushed red pepper. Transfer the sheet pan into the oven and roast for 30 to 35 minutes until the mushrooms are fully cooked and the edges are crispy, tossing 15 minutes through.

Remove from the oven and sprinkle the cheeses on top.

Transfer the sheet pan back into the oven and roast for an additional 5 minutes until the cheese is fully melted. Remove the sheet pan from the oven, squeeze the lemon juice on top of the roasted mushrooms, and adjust the salt and black pepper as needed. Serve immediately.

Tip: You need ample room for roasting the mushrooms because otherwise they'll steam in the oven, and that's not what we're going for. If you find that your pan is too crowded and there's no space between the mushrooms, divide them between two sheet pans so you can achieve optimum crispy deliciousness.

Note: The recipe and scan are used in the context of a review; all rights remain with the original copyright holders. The photos are my own.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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08 October 2022

Two New Cookbooks to Broaden Your Cooking Horizons (Weekend Cooking)

Happy Saturday. Today I have two more cookbooks for you one came out last month and the other published just this week. Thanks to the publishers for the review copies.

Book cover of Food52 Simply Genius cookbook with a photo of a roasted chickenI'm sure you're already familiar with Food52, the site that was developed to be "the one place you can see thousands of test kitchen-approved recipes, shop the kitchenware you need to make them, and discuss the results with like-minded people." Food52 was founded by Amanda Hesser and Merrill Stubbs, both well-respected figures in the food world. I have several of their cookbooks and subscribe to their newsletter.

Their newest cookbook is Food52 Simply Genius: Recipes for Beginners, Busy Cooks & Curious People written by Food52 founding editor Kristen Miglore (Ten Speed Press). The gorgeous photos are by James Ransom and the helpful illustrations are by Eliana Rodgers. No matter your comfort level in the kitchen and skill level while cooking, I guarantee this new cookbook will have something to teach you.

chart for making better pancakes from Food 52 Simply Genius by Kristen MigloreI love the troubleshooting guides (see to the left; click to enlarge), serving ideas, illustrations and photos of techniques, music suggestions, prep tips, time lines, and (of course) more. Food52 Simply Genius has your back, whether you're cooking simple beans and legumes or whipping up some chicken fennel quinoa porridge. Not sure how to tell if the shrimp is cooked perfectly? Just look at the handy photographs. Want to know why it's worth your time to boil potatoes before roasting them? Food52 Simply Genius has the answer. I truly appreciate the step-by-step photos that show the "key" techniques for success.

I made several recipes from Food52 Simply genius. Two of our favorites were Louisiana Barbecued Shrimp and the Sheet-pan Gnocchi with Chili Crisp and Baby Bok Choy. Throughout the book, the recipe directions are clear and easy to follow.

Recommendation: To paraphrase the subtitle: Food52 Simply Genius really is for every curious cook who wants to learn and improve their skills. Vegetarians, vegans, and gluten-free eaters will find appropriate recipes by looking in the index.

Cover of the The Mexican Vegetarian Cookbook by Margarita Carrillo ArronteThe second cookbook I tried this fall was The Mexican Vegetarian Cookbook: 400 Authentic Everyday Recipes for the Home Cook by Margarita Carrillo Arronte (Phaidon Press). As promised by the subtitle, this cookbook is brimming with easy weekday (and weekend) recipes that will find their way into your regular rotation. Arronte is committed to showing the world that Mexican cuisine is much more than tacos and burritos; in fact, Mexican cuisine has been recognized as being "one of the most varied and sophisticated in the world." That variety is shown in the broad range of dishes included in this book.

If you really love the more familiar Mexican dishes, have no fear. Among the less well known recipes, Arronte includes several riffs on tamales, pico de gallo, corn soup, enchiladas, and the like. I was excited to see the mix of traditional and contemporary dishes and have several recipes marked to try.

Here are some things I really like about The Mexican Vegetarian Cookbook: Each recipe begins with a list telling us where the dish is from (such as Mexico City or Veracruz), prep time, waiting time (chilling, marinating), cooking time, number of servings, diet (gluten free, dairy free, vegan), and other information (one pot, 5 ingredients, 30 minutes). The directions are clearly written and easy to follow. When needed, recipes come with a "chef's tip" to help guarantee success. Arronte includes serving suggestions for many of the dishes. At the back of the book you'll find a glossary of ingredients, recipe notes, and a detailed index.

Photo of Poblano and Corn in Cream from The Mexican Vegetarian Cookbook by Margarita Carrilo ArronteWhat I didn't like: I wish some of the dishes were a little more boldly seasoned. I do not mean that every dish should have hot peppers, but in many cases, I wanted a little more than just salt and pepper. For those recipes, I simply added my own extra seasonings or herbs, so no big deal. My only other issue pertains to availability of the ingredients in my small town. Of course, that's not Arronte's fault, and she often suggests substitutes.

I found plenty of healthful vegetarian dishes to try in The Mexican Vegetarian, including Spicy Lentils with Vegetarian Sausages, White Bean Salad with Vegetables, and Red Bell Peppers with Potatoes and Saffron. Everything was good and easy to make, though, as I said, I did doctor up a few dishes; for example, I added some herbs and black pepper to the dressing for the bean salad.

Recommendation: If you're vegetarian or vegan or just looking for new vegetarian recipes, take a look at The Mexican Vegetarian Cookbook by Margarita Carrilo Arronte. I strongly suggest that you borrow this from the library before you buy, just to make sure that it's a good fit for you.

Instead of typing out a recipe, I thought I share a spread from The Mexican Vegetarian Cookbook (you may have to click the photo to enlarge it). Arronte's simple recipe and clear photos may encourage you to give homemade tortillas a try. I bet you like them much better than the corn tortillas from the grocery store.

How to make homemade tortillas from The Mexican Vegetarian Cookbook by Margarita Carrilo Arronte

Note: The recipe and scans are used in the context of a review. Any quality issues are all on me. All rights remain with the original copyright holders.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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01 October 2022

2 Cookbooks with Fresh Ideas for Nutritious, Yummy Meals (Weekend Cooking)

We're finally done with our fall travels to visit family, and I've come home to a stack full of cookbooks to share with you. Today I'm sharing two that helped me put dinner on the table over the last few weeks.

Thanks to the publishers for providing me with review copies.

Book cover of Dinner in One by Melissa ClarkFirst up is the latest cookbook by one of my go-to authors: Dinner in One by Melissa Clark (Clarkson Potter). If you love delicious and easy one-dish dinners, then this is definitely the cookbook for you.

The recipes are grouped primarily by equipment (sheet pan, pressure cooker), but a few chapters focus on a course (pasta, soup), including one with one-bowl cake recipes.

After all our travels, I was less interested in dessert than I was in good eating, so I turned my attention to Clark's appealing and nutritious dinners.

One of the winners in the sheet pan chapter was the Glazed Tofu with Sweet Potatoes and Silky Red Peppers. In the introduction to the recipe, Clark writes: "If there's someone in your life who swears tofu is always boring and bland, this is the dish to change their mind." I'm here to say that this dinner did indeed change Mr. BFR's take on tofu. He even gladly ate the leftovers for lunch the next day!

We also liked the Spaghetti with Tuna, Capers, and Cherry Tomatoes from the pasta chapter and the Lemony Beef, Spinach, and Barley Soup from the pressure cooker chapter. I marked a ton of other recipes in Dinner in One for future dinners, such as Cheesy Meatball Parm with Spinach, Lemony Turkey and White Bean Soup with Winter Greens, and Garlicky Pork Chops with Cauliflower and Pomegranate.

The recipe introductions include helpful information, such as substitutions, side dishes, freezing information, and technique tips. Clark's directions are clear and easy to understand, and the recipes call for familiar ingredients.

Recommendation: I've trusted Melissa Clark's recipes for years, and her Dinner in One has a permanent place in my cookbook collection. Vegans, vegetarians, and gluten-free eaters will find a number of appropriate recipes.

Book cover of The Mediterranean Dish by Suzy KaradshehI'm sure I don't have to tell you that the world's love affair with Mediterranean foods is still going strong. I'm fully on that bandwagon, so I was excited to pick up a copy of The Mediterranean Dish by Suzy Karadsheh (Clarkson Potter). In case you've never heard of Karadsheh, she's the cook and spirit behind the very popular website The Mediterranean Dish. It's her site that I turn to first when I'm looking for a good and reliable Mideastern recipe.

Because Karadsheh grew up in Port Said and married into an American-Mideastern family, her perspective of Mediterranean food has a cosmopolitan twist. I also love that she infuses her website and recipes with her personal attitude about food and life: "Eat with the seasons; use mostly whole foods; and above all else, share."

Cooks newish to Mediterranean cooking will appreciate Karadsheh's guide to ingredients and what to keep in the pantry. Don't worry, the ingredients may be new to you, but they aren't hard to find. Be sure to read the recipe intros, because they contain useful tips and Karadsheh's personal story behind some of the recipes.

You'll find recipes for every meal plus snacks and sauces in The Mediterranean Dish. I made a few dinners and a couple of salads, and each dish was a winner. The Tuesday Night Skillet Chicken Cutlets with Artichokes and Mushrooms (which I served over orzo) is a great choice for spring or fall. The Farro, Corn, and Cherry Tomato Salad with Basil Vinaigrette screams summer, but we had it for September lunches. We also really liked the Garlicky Spinach and Chickpea Soup with Lemon and Pecorino Romano and Sheet-Pan Smoky Chicken, Chickpeas, and Carrots.

Of course, I've marked many more recipes to try this winter. Here are a few: Easy Homemade Pita Bread (I'd love to try her version), Mama’s Citrus-Carrot Jam (sounds so interesting), Roasted Bell Pepper Boats with Orzo and Basil Vinaigrette (we love stuffed peppers), Wine-Braised Lamb Shanks with Cinnamon and Rosemary (I love shanks!), and Orange-Cardamom–Olive Oil Cake.

Recommendation: I've been making Suzy Karadsheh's recipes for years and recommend her debut cookbook, The Mediterranean Dish, without reservation. Vegetarians and vegans will find many recipes to add to their repertoire, and I think gluten-free eaters will find plenty to cook.

Instead of typing out a recipe, I decided to share one of Suzy Karadsheh's videos so you can get a sense of her and her style of cooking. The recipe demonstrated here is for a Moroccan-style vegetarian dinner.


Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)

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